James Beard Award finalist Greg Collier has taken over as executive chef at Fine & Fettle, transforming the hotel lobby restaurant into a showcase for his signature Southern cuisine. Tucked inside the Canopy by Hilton Charlotte SouthPark, the spot sat nearly empty on a recent Friday night despite Collier's arrival in October and previews of bold new dishes. His leadership signals a pivot toward stable operations amid broader challenges in Charlotte's dining scene.
Navigating Closures and a Return to Roots
Collier's past ventures faced steep hurdles. His restaurant 3rd & Fernwood in Midtown shut down due to financial troubles and staff shortages, while Leah & Louise at Camp North End closed in 2024 amid economic pressures, with relocation plans still unrealized. Collier explained to CharlotteFive that he and his wife Subrina anticipated the downturn when shuttering Leah & Louise, and 3rd & Fernwood failed to draw crowds as an accessible "everyone" spot. These setbacks highlight persistent issues in the restaurant industry, where high costs, labor gaps, and shifting consumer habits often overwhelm independent operations, especially in less trafficked locations.
Hotel Partnership Enables Creative Focus
Collier sought a hotel collaboration for its backing. He pitched his vision to Fine & Fettle's general manager, securing freedom to shape the food and beverage program while gaining organizational and financial support. This arrangement lets him concentrate on cooking, service, and drinks without the full burden of ownership. Since late November, Instagram previews reveal a return to the Southern flavors that earned him James Beard recognition, drawing from traditions like field peas and oxtails reimagined with modern technique.
Standout Dishes Elevate the Menu
The cauliflower captures Collier's flair: grilled and seasoned like everything bagel mix, finished with coffee molasses for sweet crunch, tang, and depth that echoes the beloved cabbage from Leah & Louise. Hoppin' John justifies its $35 price through intensive preparation—field peas, red rice, and slow-cooked oxtail yield unctuous warmth, accented by pickled okra. Breakfast avoids lobby clichés, with umami-rich mushroom toast and light, toasted buttermilk biscuits. Collier now develops kitchen talent and sources from local supplier Freshlist, reinforcing ties to regional farms.
Beyond Openings: The Essence of Dining
A restaurant's true measure lies in the experiences it forges, not just its survival. Collier dismisses location concerns, noting strong banquet business offsets quieter evenings. Fine & Fettle now exceeds its "fine" reputation, offering compelling reasons for Charlotte diners to fill those seats and savor what happens in the kitchen.
